Monthly Archives: February 2013

Les Arts Decoratifs -History of contemporary fashion vol. 2 1990 & 2000 25 November – 8 May 2011

Azzedine Alaia Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere Comme des Garcons Dior by Galliano Helmut Lang Lanvin by Claude Montana Vivienne Westwood Yohji Yamamoto

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I Heart You :3

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“The Game Changer”

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SIXTIES90 MINUTE

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tHE eDITOR

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The KATE

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Space

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Lunch Time

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WORK HARD AND BE NICE TO PEOPLE***

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La Garconne

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Rollo Ball Boo

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Like mother, like daughter.

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Lou Doillon and Jane Birkin at the YSL show, Paris.

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THE ESSENTIALS Sofia Coppola

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Sofia Coppola, film director
1. Acne jeans
Hex black.
2. My SC bag by Louis Vuitton
Navy, small size, I love it for everyday.
3. Prada silk pajamas
4. Charvet shirts
I love ordering shirts there with Anne-Marie Colban.
She has great taste and is a perfectionist. I like to have a bunch when
I’m shooting so I don’t have to think about what I’m wearing.
5. Louis Vuitton cashmere legging pants
Super indulgent, great for the airplane or whenever you don’t want to get dressed.
6. Brora cashmere socks
7. Alaïa ballet flats
8. Céline classic navy coat
9. Marc Jacobs men’s cashmere sweaters
Crew-neck in navy or light gray.
10. Alexander Wang t -shirt dresses
I like basic ones: white, black or I have a gray with navy stripes.
11. Smythson fuschia Soho diary
I’ve been using these for years; always happy when I get
a new one to start the year. I like that you can see the week
and have a page for notes next to it.
12. Contax T3 camera
I always try other cameras and come back to this one.
I know I should use a digital one, but these pictures always turn out the best.
13. Araks underwear
We used these for the title shot in Lost in Translation,
and I’ve been ordering them ever since.

From Self Service

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THE ESSENTIALS Emmanuelle Alt

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Emmanuelle Alt, editor-in-chief, Vogue Paris

1. Boots
Vivienne Westwood black suede pirate buckle boots.
Martin Margiela beige suede Camarguaise boots for everyday wear.

2. Bags
Jimmy Choo black fringed bag.
Louis Vuitton Speedy bag by Sofia Coppola.
3. Coats
Rick Owens big fur coat.
Balmain jackets from any season.
4. T-shirts
Balmain from any season.
Uniqlo classic men’s t-shirt in the smallest size because it has a better fit.
Vintage because the cotton feels much softer.
5. Jeans
Topshop Baxter jeans.
J Brand flares or slim fit.
6. Sweaters
Prada classic cashmere sweater for its perfect fit.
Ralph Lauren classic cable-knit round neck sweater.
7. Underwear
Petit Bateau classic white cotton panties, I’ve worn them for years.
Stella McCartney days-of-the-week panties.
8. Cartier tank watch
Gold with black crocodile-leather strap.
9. Ray-Ban
Tortoiseshell aviator sunglasses.
10. Jewelry
I love Buccellati lace and diamonds.
11. iPad
My travel essential for playing games on the plane.
12. iPod
I love listening to music.
13. Books
I love to buy books at the airport, in any style depending on my mood.
14. Perfume
Prada Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger
15. High heels
Alaïa to wear to the shows.

From Self Service

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XXXX

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Sofia x Paris

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From the NY Times article, September 2006.

SOFIA’S PARIS ADDRESS BOOK

Shops

Azzedine Alaïa Boutique and shoe store. 4 Rue de Moussy; 011-33-1-42-72-19-19.

Benneton Graveur Stationery. 75 Boulevard Malesherbes; 011-33-1-43-87-57-39.

Bois de Rose Classic smock dresses for girls. 30 Rue Dauphine; 011-33-1-40-46-04-24.

Bonpoint Children’s clothes. 320 Rue St.-Honoré; 011-33-1-49-27-94-82. Go to www.bonpoint.com for more locations.

Galerie 213 Sofia especially likes the photo books. 58 Rue Charlot; 011-33-1-43-22-83-23.

Charvet Custom shirts and more. 28 Place Vendôme; 011-33-1-42-60-30-70.

Clignancourt Flea Market Sofia shops here for furniture. Porte de Clignancourt (Sat.-Mon.).

Dary’s Antique jewelry. 362 rue St.-Honoré; 011-33-1-42-60-95-23.

Deyrolle Taxidermy in a beautiful space. 46 Rue du Bac; 011-33-1-42-22-30-07.

Didier Ludot Vintage couture. 20-24 Galerie de Montpensier; 011-33-1-42-96-06-56.

Pharmacie Homeopatique Weber For beauty products not available at home. 8 Rue de Capucines; 011-33-1-42-61-03-07.

Free “P” Star Vintage clothing. 8 Rue Ste.-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie; 011-33-1-42-76-03-72.

Goyard Classic luggage. 233 Rue St.-Honoré; 011-33-1-42-60-57-04.

Hermès Sofia shops here for notebooks and bags. 24 Faubourg St-Honoré; 011-33-1-40-17-47-17.

Jöelle Ciocco Skin care. 8 Place de la Madeleine; 011-33-1-42-60-58-80.

K. Jacques Leather sandals. 16 Rue Pavee; 011-33-1-40-27-03-57.

Lanvin Albert Elbaz’s take on French tradition. 22 Rue du Faubourg St.-Honoré; 011-33-1-44-71-31-73.

Les Archives De La Presse Vintage magazines. 15 Rue des Archives; 011-33-1-42-72-63-93.

Marc Jacobs Palais Royal, 34 Rue de Montpensier; 011-33-1-55-35-02-60.

Odorantes Flowers. 9 Rue Madame; 011-33-1-42-84-03-00.

Pierre Hardy One-of-a-kind shoes. Jardins du Palais Royal, 156 Galerie de Valois; 011-33-1-42-60-59-75.

Sabbia Rosa Lingerie. 73 Rue des Sts.-Pères; 011-33-1-45-48-88-37.

Serge Lutens Perfume. Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido, Jardins du Palais Royal, 142 Galerie de Valois; 011-33-1-49-27-09-09.

Restaurants and Bars

Café de Flore Centuries-old artiste hangout. 172 Boulevard Saint-Germain; 011-33-1-45-48-55-26.

Le Castiglione Known for its cheeseburgers. 235 Rue St.-Honoré; 011-33-1-42-60-68-22.

Chez Allard Famed old bistro noted for poulet de bresse. 41 Rue St.-André des Arts; 011-33-1-43-26-48-23.

Chez Omar Excellent couscous, exceptionally popular. 47 Rue de Bretagne; 011-33-1-42-72-36-26.

Gerard Mulot Pastries and chocolate. 76 Rue de Seine; 011-33-1-43-26-85-77.

Bar Hemingway Classic bar with great cocktails. Hotel Ritz Paris; 15 Place Vendôme; 011-33-1-43-16-33-65.

Ladurée Historic tea salon beloved for its macaroons. 16 Rue Royale; 011-33-1-42-60-21-79. Go to www.laduree.fr for more locations.

Le Voltaire Chic bistro on the river. 27 Quai Voltaire; 011-33-1-42-61-17-49.

Mathis Supertrendy bar. 33 Rue de Ponthieu; 011-33-1-53-76-39-55.

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Emmanuelle Alt’s Five Paris Favorites

I am excited to introduce the first article by our new contributing editor, Kamila Brudzynska, in which she explores Emmanuelle Alt’s favorite spots in Paris as told to Louis Vuitton. I don’t know about you, but I would love to hop a flight to Paris right now and experience Emmanuelle’s haunts firsthand… Dziękuję Kamila!

Emmanuelle Alt’s Five Paris Favorites
By Kamila Brudzynska

Emmanuelle Alt recently shared her five favorite places in Paris with Louis Vuitton as part of their first iPhone application and companion web site, louisvuittonamble.com. Both were made for people who love to travel as new ways to collect memories and share them with friends. Users, or “amblers,” can record discoveries by photo, video, or audio on the iPhone — new great stores, galleries, restaurants, museums — whatever you want! All “amblers” can also look for inspirations from Louis Vuitton friends who suggest their own favorite “ambles” such as Emmanuelle Alt.

Le Galerie De L’Instant is known because of great exhibitions such as “Rocks Off” by Dominique Tarle in 2009, “Marilyn” in 2010, and “Soul Survivors” by Ethan Russel and Dominique Tarle in 2010. The gallery is located on 46 Rue de Poitou. “This indie gallery has great exhibits and doesn’t focus on star photographers. I go there to buy print for my friends. A good gift idea for those who already own everything!” Emmanuelle advises.

It is obvious that an editor-in-chief of a fashion magazine would be fanatical about beautiful photo books. According to Emmanuelle, “This library is a paradise for photography book lovers. I buy a lot of them. I can stay in this place for hours, browsing and talking with the passionate owner.” Where? In Comptoir De L’Image on 38-50 Rue de Sévigné. It is one of these amazing places where you can find old issues for example of Vogue or Harper’s Bazaar, designer’s catalogs from the past, and, of course, rare photo books.

In typical French fashion, Emmanuelle Alt adores delicious food so she chose two of her favorite restaurants for LV Amble. First, Le Duc at 243 Boulevard Raspail. Emmanuelle loves the “old-school and ‘serious’ vibe that reminds me of Louis de Funès movies from the 70s! Men in suits having 3-hours lunch breaks… Only in Paris.” It is a place with a well-known chef, Pascal Hélard, where you meet mostly Parisians, rarely tourists.

Another of her favorite restaurants, Marius et Janette, shows that Emmanuelle is classic Parisienne: “I hate standardized restaurants that could be anywhere in the world, and this one is definitely Parisian: classic service and set-up. Definitely a ‘Sunday restaurant’ in the most French tradition.” The restaurant is located at 4 Avenue George V. When you look closer at the menus in both restaurants, you might notice that Emma likes to eat seafood. Maybe this is one of the reasons for her amazing figure.

The last place that Emmanuelle suggests as her favorite is Leonor Greyl, a health and beauty salon on 17 Rue Tronchet. It is a brand which uses only natural products as their ingredients. Emmanuelle likes this place mostly because of privacy and as you should know this is a very important thing for her: “I love that this salon is hidden upstairs in an apartment building, giving you total privacy while being styled. Their hair massages are heavenly and the products fantastic. Truly a relaxing moment.”

Another idea for the Louis Vuitton campaign was making videos with their friends called “Louis Vuitton Fashion Week Perspectives.” Emmanuelle Alt is standing at the balcony of the Hotel Crillon in Place la Concorde. She talks about Paris: “I’m in love with this city, I enjoy living here, I was born here. And whatever age you are, you feel good here;” photographers: “I usually have photographers with me… One or two during the fashion week. They are fascinated by Paris. Someone like Terry Richardson sees Paris like in a ‘cliché’. He still thinks Parisians carry a baguette all the time, it’s really cute the way he sees the city;” bloggers: “Bloggers are more informed than anyone about everything, about your career, what you did, what you’re wearing. They are doing a great work for us. In fact, when I look for data about a photographer or someone’s past I’m well informed thanks to them;” and, of course, Louis Vuitton: “What is great about Louis Vuitton is that you never know what to expect. Some brands are more predictable. What makes Marc (Jacobs) unique is his ability to surprise everybody. Marc managed with this tight schedule to make it funny, it’s the same at his New York shows, I really enjoy this event. It’s a fascinating brand.” The video is definitely worth watching!

Emmanuelle Alt and Paris images courtesy of louisvuittonamble.com.

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PARIS CAFE

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French Twist

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Cult Adorn

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VVIP

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Atelier

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Double Actions

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B&W

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Lights

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Joaillerie

dior04Christian Dior Opening At South Coast Plaza

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Dior Homme

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Scream. And shout.

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Balenciaga SS 13

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Colour Blind

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Hollywood

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“Le Smoking” remix

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Match Maker

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Tweed Please

chanel_embellished_classic_flapchanel_jackets_2Chanel_jackets_closeup-1Chanel_jackets-1chanel_mood_boardTweedPleasechanel-moodboardChanel_Cruise_Collection_2013_Versaille_chateau_julesfashion_blog_4BQcDAAAAAwoDanBnAAAABC5vdXQKFm5IRlVfdng0UTQ2UWh3LUtZYWZvWGcAAAACaWQKAXgAAAAEc2l6ZQBQcDAAAAAwoDanBnAAAABC5vdXQKFkc3clFxbFg1UWppd3FGU1haNmMxbGcAAAACaWQKAXgAAAAEc2l6ZQmood-board710neiman-marcus-art-of-fashion-2013-karlie-kloss-08P1000553P1012071

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Individualist

 

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Restless

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Lou Lou Oui C’est Moi

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American in Paris

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FKFS

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02/20/2013 · 06:00

French Chic PT1

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Ymre Stiekema x Vogue Japan October 2012 photographed by Giampaolo Sgura styled by Anna Dello Russo

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Trend Report S/S 13

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Style Matters: Sabrina

This stunning yet simple black cocktail dress which Audrey Hepburn wore in the 1954 romantic comedy Sabrina is – believe it or not – one of the most controversial frocks in cinema history. It helped to make Sabrina one of the most stylish films of the 1950s – and to establish its young star’s famous chic gamine look. It also marked her first collaboration with Hubert de Givenchy, the French couturier, with whom her style would be inextricably linked for the rest of her life. Being a Cinderella-style love story, Sabrina opens with its heroine dressed in rather dowdier attire, however …

Audrey Hepburn’s wardrobe in Sabrina was originally to be designed by Paramount Studios’ costume supremo, Edith Head. In the film, Sabrina, the chauffeur’s lovesick daughter, goes to Paris as an awkward adolescent and returns transformed into an elegant young lady. Edith Head was put out to learn that, after their first meeting, Audrey had asked director Billy Wilder if she could wear “a real Paris dress” in the film. Mrs Wilder suggested Audrey go to Balenciaga but when the young star turned up, the couturier was too busy see her and sent her to his young friend, Hubert de Givenchy.

Givenchy later recalled: “When the door of my studio opened, there stood a young woman, very slim, very tall, with doe eyes and short hair and wearing a pair of narrow pants, a little T-shirt, slippers and a gondolier’s hat with red ribbon that read ‘Venezia’. I told her: ‘Mademoiselle, I would love to help you, but I have very few sewers. I am in the middle of a collection – I can’t make you clothes.’ Audrey asked to see the collection – and ended up choosing all of Sabrina’s post-Paris capsule wardrobe from it, starting with the super-elegant ensemble with which she wows her childhood crush when she arrives back on Long Island from France.

For Sabrina’s first-ever date with David Larabee (the dashing William Holden), the playboy with whom she has been besotted all her life, Audrey (for it really was her choice) selected from Givenchy an exquisite strapless evening gown with a boned bodice and flowing, full, ankle-length skirt. She asked the designer to alter it to that it would hide the hollows behind her collarbone. He later said: “What I invented for her eventually became a style so popular that I named it ‘decollete Sabrina’.”

Needless to say, Sabrina is the belle of the ball in her black and white Paris dress. It certainly opens the otherwise-engaged David’s eyes, prompting him to say: “Oh Sabrina, if I’d only known…”. But the “if I’d only known” dress isn’t my favourite from the film; I love the cocktail dress and cute catwoman-like hat that our fickle heroine wears when she’s being romanced by David’s brother, Linus (Humphrey Bogart). What made this cocktail dress so controversial? Well, here’s a clue:

You would assume that this sketch, by Edith Head, is evidence that she designed the dress which sums up Sabrina’s seductive blend of playfulness and elegance. But that isn’t actually the case – though Head herself allowed the misconception to go uncorrected for the rest of her life. The truth – as explained in Jay Jorgensen’s superb book, Edith Head – The Fifty Year Career of Hollywood’s Greatest Costume Designer (Running Press) – is that Head’s department was supposed to make this dress, with its distinctive bows on the shoulder and boat neck, from a sketch by Givenchy. Jorgensen explains: “Confusion about the designs in the film began as sketches were done in the wardrobe department to execute all the clothing needed. Edith began sending the sketches out to publicize the film, leading to the assumption that all the clothes were her designs.” Here’s Sabrina wearing it on her pre-theatre dinner date at The Colony with Linus.

The boat neck of what became known as “The Sabrina Dress” – the design of which was translated into a best-selling dressmaking pattern when the film was released – became a hallmark of the Hepburn look. As did the black legging-like trousers and pumps which she wore, along with a slash-necked top, for a casual visit to Linus’s office.

It’s only when Sabrina removes her coat – a collarless number which anticipates the Givenchy coats she sports in their classic 1960s collaboration Charade – and turns around that we see the sly sexiness of the ensemble:

There aren’t that many different outfits in Sabrina – just enough to immediately establish it as a must-see for style lovers. Which must help explain why Edith Head presumably kept quiet about the extent of Givenchy’s involvement in the film and the fact that, with Audrey, he created Sabrina’s Parisian-inspired look, the look that dominates the movie. Not only did Givenchy’s name appear nowhere in the credits, but Head accepted an Oscar for Sabrina and didn’t even acknowledge the French designer’s contribution to the film.

According to Jorgensen’s book, Head even had the gall to parade the original dress down the runaways of her fashion shows. It was only after Head’s 1980 death, that Givenchy, a true gentleman, finally confirmed that the dress had been his design but had been made under Head’s supervision at Paramount…

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